An unashamedly traditionalRioja – Bosconia in particular shows an earthier, wilder edge that feels gloriously old school.These wines have that paradoxical lightness and depth and that can live for years. 80% Tempranillo,15% Garnacho and 5% between Graciano and Mazuelo matured in used American oak barrels for five years. One to open ahead of time and that truly deserves a long, leisurely lunch.

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You read a lot of marketing fluff about family winemaking tradition, but at Lpez de Heredia, its real. Maria Jos Lpez de Heredia and her winemaker sister, Mercedes, couldnt care less about wine fashions. Their bodega in Barrio del Estacion in Haro is a living museum – cobwebbed Miss Havisham barrel rooms, black furry mold everywhere, little old men doing the same job that their father did decades before. The wines slumber for years in barrel and then bottle prior to release.Rarely can age worthy wine of this quality be found at this price.